Yesterday, we set our course on the Flavor Trail and discovered many wonderful things along the way. Food abounds in the region of Charlevoix, and we learned why this place is known for its culinary expertise.
We started out our day with perfect lattés and pastries at a little shop down town in Baie Saint Paul. Here in Québec they serve lattés in bowls not in mugs like we’re used to. It is fun because it makes you slow down and savor your coffee – it’s a two-handed ritual!
After breakfast we were off to “Le Route du Fleuve” or the Flavor Trail. This is a road that connects many local restaurants and the farms that produce the ingredients they prepare. This is part of a growing trend called the Farm to Table Movement. This is a movement to eat more local foods in season. The added benefits of this movement are not only healthier foods (because they are picked or harvested once fully ripened, preserving many of the nutrients that are lost when produce is harvested too early so that it can be transported long distances before it is ripe) but it also supports local farmers, ranchers and producers to help sustain your local agrarian community and the way of life it brings to your region. In Durango, we’re big fans of this. Just mention urban gardening and you’ll have a hard time getting me to stop talking and showing photos of our “back yard” or stop by the Farmer’s Market and you’ll hear Caleb entertaining Durango residents while they shop. So clearly, we were very excited about the emphasis this region puts on local, sustainable food sources.
On the Flavor Trail we followed the bay through little communities and farmland. There were beautiful views of rocks and trees meeting the water on one side and dense forest of the other side of the road that open into small fields of strawberries, corn, wheat, tomatoes, blueberries, raspberries or potatoes with dairies, flocks of chickens, pig sties and goat or sheep herds scattered in meadows here and there. We stopped to try some local honey and were surprised by how different honey tastes when the bees gathered pollen from clover, blueberries or wildflowers – but our favorite was the honey from strawberry blossoms. We visited a chocolatier and tried delicious maple and Irish cream chocolates. And we visited a fishery that supplies the fish for one of the sushi restaurants in Baie St. Paul. Here are photos of the chocolates and some of the views we enjoyed.
For lunch we stopped at Le Passe-Temps for some crêpes. Asparagus and creamy Béchamel sauce and then a caramelized maple dessert crêpe – delicious!
The whole Flavor Trail is about a 40 km drive through 4 villages, but between these villages it felt like you could just disappear into the wilderness if you turned off on any of the side roads. It felt like it wouldn’t be surprising at all to come around a corner and see a herd of moose or a bear or a caribou and there were signs every 5 km warning of moose in the subsequent 10 km – I think that roughly translates to “moose everywhere”.
Back in Baie Saint Paul we were ready for dinner. We knew we should choose wisely and we decided to go to one place for appetizers, and another place for dinner so we could hit 2 birds with one stone. Our first stop was Mouton Noir. Our appetizer was a tomato based Gazpacho with a tomato sorbet and tarragon. The soup came with a grilled crouton smeared with an olive tapenade and ribbons of tarragon on top. Not a bad way to start our dinner out, so we moved on to L’Orange Bistro just down the street a few blocks away.
At L’Orange, we both had an entrée along with a dessert (the orange chef's hat sign means it is a featured restaurant on the Flavor Trail). Caleb had the fettuccine with chorizo, red peppers, capers, sun-dried tomatoes, and arugula. It had a very Mediterranean feel to it because of the light sauce and fresh ingredients. Nadene ordered the Charlevoix organic pork loin with a maple syrup sauce and star anise. The pork was so tender and juicy and the maple syrup added an excellent sweetness to the dish. Overall, we were very satisfied with our choices and had a wonderful time talking and laughing over dinner about things that have happened on the trip. We really enjoy our time with each other!
Next came dessert. Since we are in New France, we needed to have crème brûlée at least once. It came out with the caramelized sugar on top and blueberries on the side. It was incredible. Just a few short weeks ago, I would never have guessed that we would be sitting in a bistro in New France eating crème brûlée and drinking cappuccino. What a beautiful way to do vacation on a budget!
Speaking of the coffee, we have been in the country for 4 days already and have had coffee at least once per day since we arrived (most days we’ve had even more than that). We have yet to have any coffee that needed anything to “dress” it up. No sugar, no milk, just coffee. Everything from black coffee to lattés to cappuccinos has been perfect right from the start. Here in the New France, they make their coffee with a European care that you won’t find in the States.
Yep, yesterday was a day full of beautiful vistas and delicious food and it ended with a perfect night at a beautiful hotel called La Ferme or “The Farm”. We found this place completely by accident when we were talking with an artist in Québec City who told us to at least stop and visit it. Some of the pavilions of the hotel are still under construction so we were able to get a great “pre-opening” deal. This hotel has 5 pavilions of rooms and meeting areas and each is designed to represent a type of local farm. Once completed, the grounds will be edible gardens of fruits and vegetables supplying some of the ingredients for the 3 chefs who prepare the dishes for the hotel restaurants. We were so blessed to be able to stay in such a fun and beautiful place on our budget! Here’s a photo to show you what we enjoyed!
Well, today we are headed back home to Colorado, and our trip has been wonderful so far. On the way back, we will go through place such as Cleveland, Indianapolis, Kansas City (where you know ribs will be in our future), and St. Louis. There are plenty more adventures to come over the next few days, and we invite you follow us here and keep an eye on the map above to track our progression through America. Until next time…
Salut,
Caleb & Nadene
The Epicurators
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